• I want to modify one of these to work with 2020 hardware:

  • Probably wouldn't take much "modifying" it's an ATX format case, so it was designed to fit the same motherboards we're still using. Those mid towers would probably be easiest, you'd really only have to worry about airflow and internal clearance - as stuff like GPU's and CPU coolers are much bigger now than they used to be.

  • Today is GTX 3080 series embargo day, (was delayed because some outlets didn't receive their test samples in time) so expect to have a bunch of people freaking out on twitter if they aren't as great as promised, or are better than promised, or are exactly what was expected. Or some combination of all three.

    And then prepare for Founders Edition preorders to drop like less than 24h later.

  • @tokyoslim said in PC GAMING GEAR THREAD:

    if they aren't as great as promised, or are better than promised, or are exactly what was expected. Or some combination of all three.

    called it

  • Nice breakdown!

    One thing I don't like about gaming on PC is that I feel like I have to relearn every buzzword or little detail about function, compatibility, and all that whenever I'm in the market for new hardware. I just don't keep up enough for it to be etched in my mind. But I swear there have been significant improvements and digestible information across the board since I was last looking in 2015-2016. The DF breakdown of these cards puts such easy to understand info out there. I have currently have X-Graphics Card and will get Y-Percentage of a performance boost with a 3080. Easy peasy.

    I'm going to take baby steps. I'm going to upgrade my monitor before November then maybe when the next version of the 3000 series like a 3080 Ti comes out, I'll bite then.

    Just curious, but I've always bought a 3rd party card. I remember my buddy got those dirt cheap ZOTAC 980 cards back in the day which were significantly cheaper than the rest of the market. Reviews said "be cautious" but that ZOTAC model is still kicking for him in 2020. I currently have an ASUS 1080 card. I haven't even noticed any hiccup or slowdown on any game @ 1440p in like 4 years. Is there a significant benefit to getting a Founder's card that I don't know of?

  • That's kind of a question loaded with some implied historical perspective attached:

    So the past few generations "Founders Editions" have been the first cards on the market, like these ones are going to be. They've been priced $100ish above MSRP (AKA early adopter tax) and have usually come with sub-par coolers. The 1000 series FE had a "blower" style fan that mechanically is essentially the same technology as one of those old rattle-can bathroom exhaust fans. The 2000 series FE, also came with lackluster cooling. The upside is that NVIDIA - being the one that manufacturers and ships all the processors to the 3rd party partners, generally keeps the best quality chips for their own stock. So FE cards were popular with the folks who were going to strip the crappy fan off it, and put a water cooling block on it.

    The third party vendors, meanwhile, have spent all their R&D money on designing elaborate multi-fan cooling solutions and increasing the quality of things like capacitors and power delivery so that they can usually overclock even the below-premium-tier chips to higher clock speeds and wring more performance out of them. They will then usually charge several hundred dollars more than MSRP for these cards.

    You may be asking yourself - well if both NVIDIA and 3rd party partners are charging more than MSRP for cards, then is it really an MSRP? And I'd say, exactly. :) That was one of the major complaints about the 2000 series. First off, it was like 40% more expensive at the fictional MSRP than the 1000 series, and on top of that, There were basically very few cards not on sale that were even priced that low. The 2080ti was supposed to be $1k, but You basically were paying $1200-1600 for one.

    So TLDR, in the last two generations - you were generally better off buying a well reviewed 3rd party vendor card than an FE unless you were planning on stripping the cooler off it and water cooling in terms of performance. (and generally looks, though that's subjective)


    The new cooler on the 3080 FE this time looks to be... actually good? While stuff like the highest grade capacitors and power delivery will probably still allow higher overclocking on 3rd party cards - most of those cards are going to be above MSRP again, and the FE this time is not. So this is basically the most attractive FE card in 2 generations for regular people who aren't building water (or mineral oil, or some other fluid) cooling systems.

  • @dipset said in PC GAMING GEAR THREAD:

    I'm going to upgrade my monitor before November then maybe when the next version of the 3000 series like a 3080 Ti comes out, I'll bite then.

    That's hopefully probably around when you'll be able to get most of the cards anyhow. The first wave of cards is almost always immediately sold out and they don't reload for a few months. But yeah, that's definitely a solid strategy if there's other things you need to upgrade. Do those first.

    Also the 1080 is still a beast of a card if you don't care about ray tracing or DLSS. Ray tracing is still in somewhat early adopter territory, though stuff that that comes out from now on will most likely take advantage of the RT cores in the newer cards to SOME extent - but DLSS 2.0 is a game changer, IMO.

  • Digital Foundry explains/tests DLSS 2.0

    Youtube Video

  • @TokyoSlim

    Thanks again Tokyo. I am willing to take my chances on a slightly inferior GPU fan. I currently have a $40 Cooler Master on my CPU and that's it. Seems like the price point of the FE is way more valuable to me than some bells and whistles that will up the price of the 3rd party models in the near future. I know I'm not looking to purchase this year, but I now know what goes into the pricing and these manufacturer differences going forward.


  • May not even be slightly inferior this time around. Looks to potentially be one of the better air coolers on the market. :)

  • 3080's dropping in 15 min. Good luck.

  • What can be a good and cheaper alternative to this:


  • I'm seeing that around for 80-90 bucks. that's probably the sweet spot for cases right now. If you're looking for cheaper than that, you're looking at like 60-70 dollar budget cases. So something like this would probably be best:


    overall, you're not saving much money. The masterbox might even have a bit better airflow than that MSI, but I haven't seen any reviews on it to be sure. If you like the look of the MSI, you might as well go for it.

  • @TokyoSlim

    Thanks for the answer.

  • In a confusing turn of events LG, who seem to have some of the nicest affordable Ultra Wide gaming monitors @ 1440p / 144Hz +, have added yet another confusingly named monitor available for pre-purchase.

    So I was originally looking at the definitely not confusingly named LG 34GN850-B which currently retails for $1,529.99 CAD at the ONLY online retailer I can find supplying it (Staples).

    • 34" Ultra Wide
    • G-Sync / Adaptative Sync @ 160Hz
    • 1440p HDR
    • 1ms response

    So this one is essentially bells and whistles over the extremely similar but also confusingly named older LG monitor titled LG 34GK950F-B (how is 950 older than 850, I don't know). The only differences I can seem to find online is that the 950 doesn't have G-Sync and there isn't an adaptative refresh rate to go beyond 144Hz (meh). This one retails for $1,41799 CAD.

    Now onto the NEW model for pre order:

    LG UltraGear 34GP83A-B retailing for $1099.99 CAD!
    Link to Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/LG-UltraGear-34GP83A-B-Adaptive-Sync-Compatible/dp/B08DWD38VX/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=34GN850-B&qid=1600891234&sr=8-2

    The features are the exact same as the first 850 moniotr yet it's hundreds of dollars cheaper. I'm so lost at this point...

    • 34" Ultra Wide
    • G-Sync / Adaptative Sync @ 160Hz
    • 1440p HDR
    • 1ms response

    What could possibly be the difference between this and the 850? It looks the exact same, has the same product description, yet, is hundreds of dollars cheaper.

    I wonder if I should bite or wait for reviews. Maybe the pricing of these other monitors went up due to scarcity? Either way, LG model names are sooooooo obtuse, especially because they are such similar products.


    People on Reddit are suggesting the new model for pre-order uses sRGB instead of DCI-P3 wide color gamut which everybody on Reddit seems to hate and turn off anyways...



    Might as well save the money AND save myself from over saturation. Seems like this is already sold out in the US so I might hop on it.

    Still weird that I can pre-order this product but can't find any info about it on the official LG website.

  • RE: The 950F-B and the 850-B

    I have the 950F-B but I would have gotten the 850-B had it been available when I bought it. The 850 has higher refresh rate, and slightly better color.
    The 950F is Freesync compatible, and the 850-B is Freesync/G-sync compatible.
    The main difference is that the 950F has a few more modes such as black frame insertion to reduce motion blur. They are similar panels, but the 950F being the older one, there is more backlight leakage and a slightly inconsistent black level throughout the screen. It is fine for gaming, though.

    the 850B is the higher rated of the two panels

  • Here's the Rtings breakdown between the 950/850

    To me, this is the most crucial difference between the two panels that made me want the 850 over the 950:

    But when the 850 wasn't available - I got the 950 at a steep discount and overall am pretty happy with it. The light bleed seen in the picture is probably the worst case scenario, my panel isn't quite that bad, and is only really apparent in a dark room when the screen is totally black but the backlights (side lights?) are on. I haven't been playing a lot of games with completely black screens, so it hasn't really been an issue. But yeah, the 850 seems to have significantly less light bleed.

  • I did see that RTings breakdown between the 850 and 950 and I'd probably agree with you that the light bleeding isn't a deal breaker for me. My Samsung TV has a decent amount of light bleed in a dark room but how often is the screen mostly black? Rarely in my experience.

    I'm more curious about the difference between 850-B and the new 83A-B is, especially considering it has a $430 price difference. People are saying it's the colour gamut, but why would a higher colour gamut on a gaming monitor bring the price up so much? Especially considering professionals who need the colour range don't buy gaming computers.

  • @dipset Yeah, that's something we won't really know until the monitors come out and people can test them. Doesn't seem like anybody's even seen a production model yet.